Distinguir los zapatos Oxford, los zapatos Derby, los zapatos Monk y los mocasinesJanuary 15, 2022
How to Choose the Shoe Materials from China Shoe Material Factory?January 15, 2022
Today we will talk about Oxford shoes.
“I want a pair of black calfskin mirrored, flat toe, hand-sewn welts, wide laces oxfords.”
Not so hard to understand!
The structure of men’s shoes
First, let’s get to know the basic structure of men’s shoes: Toecap (toe cap), Vamp (upper), facing (eye surface), a quarter (waist), sole (outsole), heel (heel)
Dress lace-up shoes can be divided into two categories: Oxford shoes (Oxford) and Derbies (Derbies). These two shoes mostly use the Goodyear welt process.
When it comes to Goodyear construction, that’s another big story. Now you just remember that Goodyear is a welt that stitches the insole to the outsole. In addition, in high-end custom shoe stores, be sure not to mention Goodyear and only say welt. Although it is the same process, Goodyear welt has defaulted to machine stitching, and hand-made welt is hand-stitched.
A circle on the edge of the sole is the Goodyear welt. Why is there this welt? The original intention is to easily disassemble and replace the worn-out soles, which is why a pair of Charles leather shoes can be worn for decades. Knowing what to do and cherishing, this is the attitude of a veteran gentleman towards material things.
Features of Oxford shoes
Oxford shoes have three characteristics:
- Closed lacing,
- Low heel
- Low cut to expose the ankle
As long as the above three conditions are met, no matter the decoration, material, or color, it belongs to Oxford shoes!
The leather portion of the derby with the eyelet is flared. The eye surface of Oxford shoes is pressed and sewn under the vamp. Traditionally, this closed lacing looks more rigorous and decent.
The oxford shoes that emerged at Oxford University in the early 19th century are the most basic and timeless formal and casual shoes, even the most sloppy men need to prepare a pair.
Simple and understated, oxfords can be used for almost any occasion, depending on the materials used. Every day wear dark brown, black can be.
Everyday wear, dark oxfords with cap toe
Everyday wear, half-cut suede oxfords
Uneven textured full-grain leather oxfords can even be paired with jeans, while a pair of tuxedos requires a simple, delicate, shiny patent-leather oxford without an embossed toe cap.
Do you think you already understand Oxford shoes? Then look down!
The four main styles of Oxford shoes
One-piece/Whole cut Oxford
The entire shoe is made from one piece of leather and has only one stitch on the heel. A shoe that is extremely simple and modest, it is not common but has a popular trend in recent years.
The whole cut needs to use the whole leather because there is no stitching. Therefore, it is also more expensive than other styles of Oxford shoes. One-piece oxfords in patent or mirror leather without engravings go well with a dress!
Flat-toe oxfords have no leather patch on the toe and no engravings. It is the most elegant style of oxford shoes. Black flat oxfords are standard dress shoes, and patent leather can be matched with evening dresses (white tie) and tuxedos (black tie).
See Higgins’ black patent leather oxfords with tuxedo
Note: Black patent leather oxfords are best worn with wide laces to match the bow tie.
Oxford shoes with cap toe
Compared with flat-toed oxfords, toe-cap oxfords have an extra piece of leather on the toe (and sometimes the heel), and are the most widely worn semi-formal shoes. Wearing a black toe cap to a general meeting is fine. But be sure not to match a dress, especially a tuxedo, which is very inappropriate! Tradition has it that this is the way of the poor who cannot afford a second pair of Oxfords.
Let’s talk a little bit about the dress here.
Dresses are roughly divided into two types: Black tie (tuxedo) and White tie (evening dress), of which the White tie is the highest specification for solemn occasions after 6 pm.
White tie is worn by Obama to the Queen’s Dinner. Black tuxedo, white shirt, white vest, white bow tie, black patent leather flat oxfords.
During the daytime meeting, everyone wore a black tie, black suit, white shirt, black bow tie, and also black patent leather flat-toe oxfords.
In the circle of friends of the son, there are often pictures of the child’s piano performance, some wearing evening dresses during the day, some wearing the wrong shirts and bow ties. Worst of all was the shoes, barely wearing the right ones. Fashion can not be chased, but the system that has not changed for a hundred years is the basic common sense that parents need to teach their children, as important as the multiplication table!
Wing-shaped oxford shoes are generally carved, also known as baroque shoes (Brogue).
The cipher in “Kingsman”: “Oxford, not Brogue.” Many subtitles translate: “Oxford is better than Baroque.” Inaccurate! Baroque shoes are a type of Oxford shoes. The translation of this sentence should be: Oxford shoes, not carved.
Baroque is not so much a shoe shape, but a decoration.
full baroque oxford shoes full brogue Oxford
semi-baroque oxfords semi-brogue Oxford
1/4 baroque oxfords quarter brogue Oxford, only engraved at the junction
Many people take “Oxford, not Brogue” as an appreciation guide. In fact, carving or not carving only corresponds to different occasions, and there is no taste. Young Master thinks this code is just a pure code, because when Eggy followed Uncle Colin into the fitting room – there were many Baroque carvings on the shoes on display!
Men’s shoes other than oxfords, which we’ll discuss later.
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