A set of exquisite men’s clothing must be a pair of leather shoes that can be worn on the table. It is an interesting phenomenon that many men wear a straight suit on formal occasions, but a pair of ugly leather shoes.
In addition to the requirements for comfort in wearing leather shoes, it is also very important to distinguish the nature of leather shoes. After reading this article, you must understand the truth, not all leather shoes are suitable for formal occasions.
What is the difference in their nature? For what occasion? Let’s learn together.
If we classify men’s suits according to the placket, then they will be divided into single-breasted suits and double-breasted suits. And leather shoes have shoe plackets, which are classified according to different types of shoe plackets, which is also the biggest difference between their essence. There are several common types: closed placket, symmetrical open placket, unilateral open placket, and no placket.
What styles do different shoe placket types correspond to? Due to the limited space, we will divide the introduction into upper and lower sections.
Features: The placket on both sides and the upper are connected as a whole, the holes for wearing shoelaces are punched on the upper, and the tongue is connected to the inner side of the shoe. The shape is similar to the Derby (described later), but the details of the placket position are slightly different. There are many types of oxford shoe styles such as:
“One size fits all” means that the entire shoe body is made of a single piece of leather, the toe and the arch of the foot are not spliced, and there is no interface except for a seam in the heel.
For general leather shoes, only the best leather is used in the toe cap. If it is made of a single piece of leather, it cannot be spliced with inferior leather, and it will test the shoemaking technology.
Applicable occasions: ceremony, semi-formal, casual
There is stitching in the middle of the shoe body and the placket, the surface of the toe cap is not stitched together, and the upper has no pattern on the whole. It is the most formal style in the evening. Due to changes in etiquette over time, two-joint oxfords can now also be worn on formal daytime occasions.
Suitable occasions: formal, ceremony, business.
Note: Black patent leather oxfords are best worn with wide laces to match the bow tie.
Compared with the two-joint Oxford shoes, the three-joint Oxford shoes have an additional horizontal decoration, that is, the toe part is divided by stitches. Although it is not as simple as the two-joint Oxford shoes, it is like adding a “top hat” on the basis of the two-joint. It is a formal style of daytime dress shoes of traditional etiquette.
Suitable Occasion: Formal, Business.
Brogue Oxford shoes are based on Oxford shoes, with some decorative holes on the leather surface – Brogue. Historically speaking, 16th-century brogues were just a type of work shoe worn by Scottish and Irish people, with small holes in the toe cap to facilitate drainage when wet, making it easier for wet shoes to dry.
Gradually evolved after the 20th century, the Duke of Windsor excavated it from the countryside and made it a fashionable item for gentlemen.
There are several styles of this shoe: full brogue, half brogue, quarter brogue, wing brogue.
There are a large number of small holes in various forms on the upper, which are based on Wingtip shoes (that is, the toe with W decoration), and are carved.
When the full brogue’s W shape spreads around the upper like a wing, we call this style the Long Wing.
The connection between brogues and oxfords:
The classic line “Oxford, not Brogues” in Kingsman.
Bullock itself refers to carved hollows, not a type of shoe. When it appears on Oxford shoes, it is called Bullock Oxford shoes, referred to as: Brogues; and we say Oxford shoes refer to Yes, Oxford shoes without any engraving process, referred to as Oxford shoes (Oxford).
So the translation of this line should be: wear oxfords, but don’t wear oxfords with a carved pattern.
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